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The Story Behind a Stunning, Award-Winning Dawn on U-Bein Bridge

A real pleasure to have been recognised at this year’s International Photography Awards, with my picture of the “Meeting on the bridge” outside Mandalay, Myanmar getting an Honorable Mention. 2017 International Photo Awards.

Myanmar is a fascinating country ( facing a number of challenges at the moment ) with a huge number of historic sights and well worth a visit with much of the tourism in regions well away from the contentious borders. Mandalay and this bridge are better known for dramatic sunset shots. However, sitting by the bridge as the dawn sky brightened, watching the morning procession of traders, monks, school children, tourists and families going from one side of the lake to the other, I was pleased to catch this ‘meeting’ with a young child passing a monk coming in the other direction. Underneath in the water a passing fishing boat happened to rest at just the right point between the posts.

Monk and boy meet on the U-Bein Bridge with a boat below, in Mandalay, Myanmar. U Bein Bridge is a crossing that spans the Taungthaman Lake near Amarapura in Myanmar. The 1.2-kilometre bridge was built around 1850 and is believed to be the oldest and longest teakwood bridge in the world. (Christopher Reeves/TravelSnapper : Christopher Reeves Photography)

The U Bein bridge is 11 kilometres south of Mandalay, it is a beautiful 1.2 kilometre-long structure built from teak planks and said to be the longest of its type in the world. In 1857, when the capital moved from nearby Amarapura to Mandalay, the local mayor (named U Bein) salvaged wood from pieces of the dismantled teak palace and reconstructed it into this magnificent bridge.

Photo details: Canon EOS 5D MkIII, EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM, 1/80 at f/10, Gitzo Traveller GT2545T tripod

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How Myanmar’s Millennials Are Shaping a New Digital Future

As a developing country, Myanmar is embracing the digital age with remarkable enthusiasm. Since the cost of a SIM card dropped from over 1,000 USD to around 1 USD, people across society have leapt at new ways to talk, share and learn, just as the country searches for a new identity after decades of military rule.

1. Connectivity and everyday life

Modern smartphones and cheap data have reached deep into Myanmar’s towns and villages. On buses, in teashops and at markets, people now scroll through Facebook, watch videos and message friends in a way that would have been unthinkable only a few years ago.

Myanmar selfie

New age of technology

Access anywhere ...

Modern times

2. Infrastructure, energy and e‑bikes

Infrastructure and energy remain a challenge, but there are signs of leapfrogging. In Bagan, quiet electric bikes have replaced noisy petrol scooters as a way to explore the 26 square miles of plains dotted with more than 3,000 temples and stupas, letting visitors move silently through the landscape.

energy challenges

E-bikes in Bagan

E-Bikes in Bagan have supplanted any petrol bikes …and a lot quieter way to enjoy the sights

Social media entrepreneurs

3. Entrepreneurs, tourism and millennials

Entrepreneurs are appearing everywhere, experimenting with new business ideas that use this upgraded network. As the banking system reforms and tourism grows, digital tools could support jobs that offer alternatives to the legacy drugs trade in some regions. Myanmar’s millennials, with strong family ties and rich cultural traditions, seem likely to move through a faster development curve than previous generations.

Dreams of the big city

Dreams …what lies beyond

For many young people, the smartphone has become a window into the wider world and a way to dream about life beyond their village – and, of course, a way to take a selfie to remember the moment.

Selfie challenge

Cheap telecoms bring the selfie generation to all of Myanmar

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Myanmar Emerging: First Impressions of a Country Opening Up

After many years of isolation, Myanmar – often described as a land of “blood, gold and dreams” – is emerging fast. History, religion and culture run deep, and there is a new enthusiasm for trade, enterprise and openness. Tensions remain as the country works out its identity after decades of military rule, but there is also a clear desire for change.

Organisations such as the Myanmar Centre for Responsible Business (MCRB), supported by former foreign diplomats, are pushing for greater transparency. Progress is uneven and many attitudes and institutions from the era of military control still hold back reform, especially in deprived regions, yet the overall direction feels cautiously hopeful.

Sunrise looking out over the temples of Bagan, Myanmar (Christopher Reeves/TravelSnapper : Christopher Reeves Photography)

The selfie arrives:

One visible sign of change is the arrival of the smartphone. Since mobile SIM prices fell from several hundred US dollars to under 1 USD, access has transformed daily life. From shopkeepers to monks, people are embracing social media, taking selfies and using their phones to reach news, information and ideas that were previously out of reach. (Bloomberg: Myanmar opens it’s mobile market)

Development challenge:

Primary industries are trying to modernise, but infrastructure, power outages and creaking legacy systems are still obvious. Parts of downtown Yangon have a faded charm that recalls Havana – another city rich in history and natural wealth, now working out how to re‑emerge and avoid the development pitfalls others have faced.

Gems and mining remain central to Myanmar’s story, and recent offshore oil and gas finds raise hopes of greater energy independence. The teak logging industry has taken a toll on forests, and while replanting programmes exist, this slow-growing hardwood will take time to return. Drugs and the legacy of the “Golden Triangle” still cast a long shadow, and tackling illegal trade remains a major challenge for the government.

Travelling around:

Tourism and the backpacker trail from Thailand are now in full flow, from beaches in the south to the extraordinary temples of Bagan and the evocative heartlands of Mandalay and Lake Inle. Even some northern regions are slowly opening to independent travellers, though strong drug cartels and illegal industries in remote border areas mean mainstream tourism there is still some way off.

Myanmar is still a place where you can travel on a few dollars a day, yet there is also a growing number of good hotels and restaurants. Encouragingly, many in the tourism sector are taking the eco‑challenge seriously: around Bagan, for example, the move to quiet electric e‑bikes helps protect both the environment and the sense of peace as you explore thousands of temples, pagodas and stupas.

Looking beyond the headlines:

“Mingalaba” – a multipurpose greeting, hello and blessing – is the word most visitors will hear first, and it quickly softens any expectations of heavy police presence or constant tension. There are still real challenges in governance and doing business, but the country and its people feel ready to embrace new opportunities. For curious travellers, Myanmar remains very much worth a visit to look beyond the headlines and form your own view.

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Myanmar – land of blood, dreams and gold

As a break from skiing, I’m heading for a photography project and thinking of warmer climes to improve the mood;  so I feel very fortunate to be getting to explore the fascinating country of Myanmar / Burma for the next few weeks.

Taking a few notes from Richard Cockett’s excellent book on “The Changing face of Burma“, hints from the Lonely Planet and visual inspiration from the National Geographic I’m fortunate in being shown around by some acclaimed photographers so I hope to be able to share a few reasonable snaps with you in due course!

From the legendary stupas of Bagan, the evocative Road to Mandalay and enormous Schwedagon Paya temple in Yangon through to the peace of Lake Inle (with curious ‘leg rowers’) and the general intrigue of some of the interior still emerging from a period of isolation… a few weeks seems only too short a time.

Image courtesy of travelalerts.ca : http://www.travelalerts.ca/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Bagan.jpg

Planning and gear?

People often ask what I am going to take on a trip and so here’s a few notes to help. As some early prep I have been having a familiar trawl through the Photographers Ephemeris for ideal times and angles for light at the key locations on the route; if you have not made use of this tool, it’s well worth the effort in planning up-front.

I’ve long been a Canon man, so it’s a healthy travel bag of gear to cover a range of options. There are a few compromises for weight and the local airlines having a 7kg hand luggage limit:

  • EOS 5D Mk3 with a mix of lenses: 10-22mm f.3.5, 24-70mm f2.8 and a 70-200mm f2.8 plus 1.4 multiplier ( I couldn’t quite fit a 100-400mm into the list )
  • Gitzo tripod, taking the lightweight Traveller series 2545 (I’m a tall guy so need the height!)
  • A selection of Cokin ND filters for those sunrise / sunset shots (some prefer the Lee series, I’ve not had a problem with Cokin over the years)
  • Handful of Sandisk 32Gb Extreme Pro cards
  • Kingston G2 MobileLite wireless card reader / storage and router – great for hotels with limited wifi plus handy for data transfer to a portable USB hard-drive without needing to fire-up the laptop, and it acts as a portable 4650mAh battery charger
  • MacBook Pro 15″ with Lightroom / Photoshop CC ( you get well over a month of grace for use offline – which also helps battery life
  • …and of course some cleaning gear to cope with the ever present dust ( it is just at the end of a dry season )

For a bit of fun and for those times on the trains, boats and rickshaws, I’m going to squeeze in a GoPro Hero4.

 

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Gallery support for Save the Rhino

I feel fortunate to have had the pleasure over the years of seeing close-up both black and white rhino’s in their natural, wild habitat across Africa.These are wonderful creatures and a fascinating throwback to the age of dinosaurs; it is sad that they are being poached out of existence and are critically endangered.

It has also been great to have seen to see the efforts from individuals like the Craig family at Lewa Downs in Kenya and to help out organizations such as Save the Rhino over the years.

Through my forthcoming exhibition I wanted to add some support and so will be donating £50 from every rhino image sold to Save The Rhino.

Sunset in the Serengeti (Christopher Reeves)

Sunset in the Serengeti (Christopher Reeves)

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Gallery Different exhibition plans

Final preparations underway with the team at Bayeux to finalise, print and mount my images for exhibition at Gallery Different.


Great fun in choosing the final selection of images from the last few year travels … should look good, the space has such potential. Some wonderful large aluminium frameless images to add to the drama – great work from Nick at Bayeux.

Also looking forward to welcoming the award winning sculptor Sophie Orde with a few friends to display some of their latest pieces as a nice counter-point to the photography.

A few drinks and events planned to help ease the wandering around and chatting and I look forward to seeing everyone there.

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Awesome Chamonix summer fun and hiking

Sunshine, blue skies, good friends and mountain scenery to enjoy. Flocks of parapenters floating around the valley above Chamonix as everyone escapes to the hills for hikes, bikes …or just to train for the UTMB ultra-race around Mont Blanc.

Ever popular parapenting over Chamonix Valley (Christopher Reeves)

Glorious walking weather around Bellevue and the Col de Voza with the Mont Blanc Tramway passing by en route to the glacier at the foot of Mont Blanc

First opened in 1907 the historic Mont Blanc Tramway (Christopher Reeves)

Mont Blanc Tramway

A short sharp shower to freshen the air and leave some dramatic clouds rising out of the valley, past the Aiguille de Midi telepherique

Clouds and mist rising after a storm in Chamonix valley (Christopher Reeves)

The dramatic Mer de Glace near the Montenvers station is a wonderful hiking starting point, although the dramatic receding glacier shows how much the climate has warmed …as you walk past the 1890 level near the station one can dismiss it at “a long time ago” but when the 2010 mark shows and there is another 20-30 meters drop, it does help focus the mind.

Looking over Mer de Glace from Montenvers (Christopher Reeves)

Mer de Glace from Montenvers

Looking across the Chamonix valley (Christopher Reeves)

Railway link from Chamonix to Mer de Glace (Christopher Reeves)

Montenvers railway

Around the streets of Chamonix the graffiti is typically inspired mountain / out-doors

Mountain style graffiti in Chamonix (Christopher Reeves)

Mountain graffiti Chamonix

…although the views of Mont Blanc from around the hills need no further graffiti other than the wonderful flushes of colourful flowers

Mont Blanc looking calm and deceptively easy to climb from Brevant (Christopher Reeves)

Floral Mont Blanc

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Photography exhibition, London, 7-12 November 2016

My next opportunity to display a range of recent images and some old favourites in a new (and rather fabulous) gallery space just off Tottenham Court Road and Charlotte Street.

Gallery Different is known for for promoting and encouraging some great artists and this is a great opportunity to be part of this large, open space on the edge of Soho to show off my photography.

This show has a mix of Africa and The Americas on show from some recent travels and experiences ; from the wilds of the Serengeti to the back lanes of Death Valley with a number of places inbetween.

Along with the photography I have been collaborating with a sculptor friend of mine, Sophie Orde, who will be showing off a number of exciting pieces around the gallery.

2016 Exhibition

TravelSnapper Exhibition, 7-12 November 2016

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Easter break in Axmouth and walks on the Jurassic Coast

A wonderful few days relaxing by the coast  (with great weather) and staying on the harbour side at Axmouth for a few days post-Easter break. Thanks to Sue for her charming cottage and Alastair Sawday for the recommendation.

Great walks to the wonderfully named Beer Head, fossil hunting at Chideock and Seatown. Walking from the harbour up onto the cliffs gives a wonderful view along the headland, then to walk along the shingle beaches you get to see all the rock strata and geological formations that give this, Jurassic Coast World Heritage site such an appeal for fossil hunters – and not far from the very early British oilfield at Kimmeridge ( K1 still nodding away)

Handy fish and chips and many a good pub to ease the weary limbs and thirst all along the South Coast pathway.

 (Christopher Reeves)

Early morning at Axmouth Harbour (Christopher Reeves)

 (Christopher Reeves)

 (Christopher Reeves)

Seajay moored up in the setting sun at Axmouth Harbour (Christopher Reeves)

Waves crashing onthe harbour marker at Axmouth (Christopher Reeves)

 (Christopher Reeves)

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A new course for Cuba

Great to see the developments in Cuba. With the US President (and of course the Rolling Stones) touching down in Havana for a historic re-start of engagement many businesses looking to the opportunity for life back in Cuba; not just the cigars and sugar plantations gearing up for a lot of investment … I’m sure the classic car industry will have a field day !

Fond memories of great friendly people, an entrepreneurial spirit and real potential. Well worth getting out of Havana and exploring the countryside. Next to see what will happen to Guantanamo !

Classic cars in the streets of Trinidad, Cuba (Christopher Reeves)

Teacher in old Trinidad town, Cuba (CHS Reeves +44(0)7887 608059)

Classic cars on the Malecon, Havana (Christopher Reeves)

Mural to Che Guavara in Havana, Cuba (CHS Reeves +44(0)7887 608059)

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